The Midwest is all about steaks, burgers, deep fried stuff and greasy mom-and-pop rural shacks with no style -no class -no quality. But then you happen to be in Grand Rapids, Michigan and stumble upon San Chez (www.sanchezbistro.com), the greatest, most creative restaurant between Chicago and New York, period. The relief San Chez (“A Tapas Bistro”) provides from all the Middle America cheap fare the traveler has endured around Michigan accounts for a heavenly climactic experience.
San Chez is an amazing cocktail of unexpected flavors, surprising mixtures and imagination, loads of explosive imagination. These are not the traditional, basic tapas Spaniards enjoy- San Chez presents the products that made Spain famous filtered through a smart, creative American vision, making ingredients like artichokes or scallops reach levels one would not expect out of Catalonia or Paris. Here we find Mediterranean, Atlantic and Pacific touches, counting for Spain, North America and Latin America.
If mixes and culture-crossings are always dangerous, San Chez hits with ease and triumphs, clamorously. Never have I seen Spain so gorgeously and intelligently blended with the regions of the world that share a common language.
Executive Chef Casey Bell lived for twenty years in Spain and maintains a house in Barcelona, reflected in San Chez in the GaudÃ-esque tiles adorning columns and walls and the Catalan Bistro atmosphere. Despite some minor errors in the spelling of the Spanish menus and certain Mexican decoration, San Chez tastes like Spain, and beyond.
At San Chez, dining is not a simple act of feeding but an experience, an artistic happening of small delicatessen concoctions in the style of those multi-plate dinners made famous by the likes of masters Ferran Adrià and Thomas Keller. Though San Chez is not on that level neither intends to, its eclectic Mediterranean-American cuisine deserves the highest praise. The unbelievable, different sensations bombarding the mouth in each bite are a not-to-forget peaking moment, probably not far from those served in Roses and Napa Valley.
It did help having a knowledgeable, friendly server named Adam, who was honest and straight in telling what’s best. His recommendation of Alcachofas a la Parrilla (“Marinated and grilled artichoke hearts with roasted red peppers and alioli”) turned to be one of our favorites: heavenly-crunchy, exactly-grilled huge artichokes with a great alioli (a mayonnaise-like Catalonian sauce made of garlic, olive oil and egg). The Seta Rellena Grande (“Portabella mushroom layered with serrano ham, manchego cheese, green onion, and roasted red pepper. Accompanied by organic greens and tomato vinaigrette”) makes a deliciously thought-provoking concoction, meaty and juicy.
Quality, creativity and sophistication reign supreme in San Chez, so stay out of the too-common deep-fried Fritos de Queso Azul (“Blue cheese fritters”) and let your senses be shocked opting for the unusual stuff: the brilliant Banderillas de Vieiras Marinadas y Tocino (“Spicy marinated scallop and bacon skewer with mixed greens and habanero, grape, mango chutney”) are a top-notch crossing of cultures and opposite flavors. Two classical ingredients from Galicia (Northern Spain) like scallops and bacon skewer, seafood and meat, that would never ever get mixed in Spain work superbly together, with a spicy sauce rooted in Latin America.
Traditional tapas (here called “entremeses” or “starters”) are also served, and make for a perfect cold first step before merging into the innovative delirium of small platters. The Surtido de Queso, selection of cheeses from Spain (cow, goat, sheep) is delectable and authentic (the cured, aged Manchego must be one of the best available in the United States).
Room must be saved in the stomach (Midwesterners will have it easy) for the Crema Catalana (“Baked sugar glazed custard laced with hazelnut liqueur”), rightly rich and sweet, seamless with a perfect caramel crust in the greatest Catalonian tradition.
The Sangria is the drink to have, perfectly fruity and juicy, as in the best spots in the Spanish Mediterranean Coast, but the recommended mojito, too tangy, could use a serving of sugar.
At $80, dinner for two including dessert and beverages at San Chez may be highly priced for Grand Rapids and the Midwest (where a party of eight gets potato-and-meat for 40 bucks or a brutal, artery-clogging bacon/sausage/egg/pancakes breakfast for half of it), but coming from New York, my wife and I had one of the most unforgettable dining events. I only wish it were in New York, but the San Chez experience will keep us coming back to greasy, stuck-in-the-60’s old West Michigan.
Among trailer parks, bad hair, outrageous pink-and-yellow outfits and country hicks, in that empire of white trash that is Michigan, it’s still hard to believe for me that such an upscale precious restaurant exists in Grand Rapids.
Take a flight, go there, now. San Chez is the “El Bulli” of the Midwest.
